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How to (better) repair arcade pads?
Old 08-05-2007, 01:56 PM   #1
faded
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Default How to (better) repair arcade pads?

I am getting a little fed up with my ITG2 (old DDR cabinet.)

Players are complaining about the pads every time I turn around, and the amount of time I put into them is WAY less than the amount I earn off the games anymore.

I am willing to fix them, but I am tired of running in circles.

I am hoping someone out there has successfully got 'like-new' response out of old pads and can shed some light.

There are just so many variables going on underneath the arrows.

Seems to me the sensors alone aren't the only issue: I have only had a handful completely fail over the years, and a few more that have gotten stuck (as in almost permanently.)


Lately I have replaced a few sensors and tried a couple of other things.

I have had mixed results with shimming the sensors. I have tried paper, thicker paper, and aluminum strips. Shimming almost ALWAYS results in a great increase in sensitivity, with a slight touch resulting in a hit. Unfortunately, what also tends to happen after shimming is that the arrows start missing MORE. This is because they start getting STUCK!

I am considering buying all new switches for my ITG2, but as the sensors alone will cost more that a month's worth of earnings right now, I don't want to waste the money on only a partial repair.

I have had at least one reccomendation to do something with the corner supports. (Yellowish, hard rubber or urethane 'L's underneath the corner triangles.)
Last week I put some washers underneath some of them and shimmed some sensors, but I am getting mixed results. Bringing them up higher made everything feel great underfoot, but then we had to shim sensors to compensate a little for a height change. And then the stuck arrows again....

Has anyone found good switches with connectors that match the machines, or a source for the right connectors? Cutting and splicing every switch gets to be a little old, and every splice provides a new point for potential future failure too.

I have bought green switches and grays, and the grays seem to work better and are sealed so they don't fall apart. Neither came with the right plugs of course.

I imagine somone out there has turned a machine completely around, and I am hoping they will share what they found to be the correct combination of parts and adjustments to get the results.

Thanks,
-eric
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