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How to: Make Your Pop'n ASC Quieter: Without losing sensitivity! (Lots of pictures)
Old 03-02-2009, 12:01 AM   #1
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Default How to: Make Your Pop'n ASC Quieter: Without losing sensitivity! (Lots of pictures)

So it's been a long damn time since I've posted in the Pop'n forum, and mainly that's because I've had trouble actually finding the time to play Pop'n. Even though free time was abundant for a while, it was never a good time to play. Apartment living and a loud as hell controller can do that to a man.

However, a few trips to 8 on the Break later and a renewed addiction to Pop'n forming, I figured it was time to bring an end to this problem, and after some experimenting, I've found a pretty good solution. It doesn't completely eliminate the noise, and the controller will still be decently loud, but it will reduce it from an earshattering crack to a much more respectable low thud. Another added benefit: If you don't like the results, the process is cheap and easily reversible!

(NOTE: I did this with a Ransai, but the same general idea should apply to a DJ Dao, a DASC, a Controllica, a homemade ASC, a KASC, an actual cabinet, etc, etc.)



There were a few different materials I tried. Pipe insulation was too hard to cut thin enough, felt was about right but too thick and made the buttons not register too often, and hobby foam was too solid to actually allow any airflow on the underside of the button, so it didn't compress very well at all.

The winner was, oddly enough, a plain old wifebeater (or an A-shirt to be politically correct) that I chopped up.

So! Here's what you'll need to complete this whole fun process:


  • Your Pop'n ASC (durrrr)
  • The shirt
  • Scissors
  • A Sharpie or other permanent marker
  • Scotch Tape (not the clear kind, the cheap crappy stuff is better for this)
The first step you want to take is to remove your buttons. I'll just be doing one for the guide, but the same process goes for all nine buttons. Pop the switch out, unscrew the nut holding the button in place, and bam! Button.




Now on the underside of the button, you should see two small white tabs. You can pinch these inward and then press them down, and this should separate the white and colored plastic pieces from the black plastic holder.


It is at this point that my camera died and I switched to my phone. Sorry for the shitty picture quality from this point onward.


Now this next step will help you make sure you're cutting the shirt up into the right sized pieces. If you look at the side of the white/colored part of the button, you should see how they stay together. It's really just a matter of gently prying the colored cap off the rest of the button, and then you'll get a white base, a white separator, and a colored dome.




Take the middle piece (the flat white separator) and lay it out on the shirt, and trace around it with your handy dandy Sharpie. If you're worried about getting marker on the separator, trace it with pencil on paper first and cut that out to use it as a template. Once you draw the circle, cut it out of the material a decent bit smaller than you've drawn it. You want the circle to be a decent bit smaller than the actual separator you used as a template. (After you've used the separator as a template piece, you can simply put the white pieces and the dome back together the same way you took them apart.)




Once the circle(s) are cut out, fold them over twice, and cut the middle corner out, so when you unfold it there's a hole in the center. If you place it on the underside of the dome part of the button and it looks somewhat like the result I have here, you should be OK. If it's hanging off the edge a bit, trim it, otherwise the button could get stuck once you've finished.





Reassemble the button completely, and install it back in the controller once you're done.



Once the controller is reassembled, TEST IT. If it works and feels fine with no misfiring, congratulations! You're done! Don't overcomplicate things with the next step if you don't need to. Mine was almost perfect at this stage, and I only needed the next step to prevent the occasional dead hit, which was about four or five per song while playing 40s and 41s.

On to part 2: What to do if it still isn't perfect.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:14 AM   #2
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Now if you get back from testing, and all is NOT well, here is how to fix what is most likely your major problem you've run into. You hit the buttons but they simply don't register like you want them to! Being a rhythm game, buttons not working is a very bad thing, so here's what you need to do to any buttons that are acting up. (I did this to all of mine just for a consistent feel, and I personally think it feels great.)

Take note of this right here. Those little white tabs that you squeezed in to disassemble the controller are actually what is pressing in the microswitch (as you can see here). What we need to do is take that side of the button mechanism and add just a little tiny bit more to it.



This is where our friend the Scotch tape comes in. You want to get yourself a piece of tape, very very thin. The width of the tape itself will cover all the length you have to worry about.




To get a good thickness on the tape, you need to press one end of the tiny strip on the white tab of the button, then fold the tape over itself, then fold it back over itself again. This gives you three layers of tape, which ended up being exactly the right amount in my case. Once the tape is in place, you can just pop the switch back to where it needs to be and test it out.






Once you're finished, it should be a much quieter controller, and you can set off the buttons with either a light touch or a good solid slam, just like you always could.




And there you have it! It's a cheap and effective way to make your Pop'n playing much less of a pain in the ass for friends, neighbors, loved ones, and people you don't particularly like but who enjoy complaining about you for making too much noise during the middle of the day. If you try this method out and it works for you, please post about it and tell other people you know who have Pop'n controllers to try it out!

If it doesn't work very well, you can let me know as well, and I'll see if I can revise a few parts of it if they don't seem to work. However I've managed to beat a lot of my scores on Fever CS after doing this mod, and I personally think it makes the buttons feel a bit more like stock arcade Pop'n buttons (like at the late, great TGA or the Fever/Party at BGSU in Ohio). Thanks for reading, I hope it helps, and as an added bonus here's my cat deciding he wants to learn how to work with electronics.

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Old 03-03-2009, 01:04 PM   #3
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Awesome thread. Mind if I sticky? I know that this question gets asked a lot.
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:09 PM   #4
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Go for it, it's practically your forum these days anyway haha.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:06 PM   #5
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I did the "A-Shirt" Mod on my DASC and it works it much quieter now and my roommates won't be bitchin at me for the noise
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:57 PM   #6
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I found that my dao reduced in noise level after continual playing at level 37ish for around a few weeks.

I also think putting sanwa's in it would help but I think that would be about 300 bucks
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:10 PM   #7
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Question. How many people have done this? If so, how much does it actually reduce the noise? We have pretty thin walls here and am wondering if it will reduce the noise to a decent level.
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Old 05-26-2009, 07:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arbel View Post
Question. How many people have done this? If so, how much does it actually reduce the noise? We have pretty thin walls here and am wondering if it will reduce the noise to a decent level.
i only did the A shirt mod and here is a little comparison from an un modded controller to a modded controller (mine)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stier View Post
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:20 AM   #9
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Just tried this.

Works pretty well on songs just below my level range--tested it on Get Wild [Hyper] and Beat Rock 3 [Hyper], and it works just fine. Whatever misses I got were most likely from my brain being tired from being up at 3 in the morning.
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